Saturday 20 June 2020

A 'Peaceful' but not 'Silent' Spring

Now that we are almost at the summer solstice I can hardly believe that this spring, the 'lockdown spring' has slipped past so quickly, and here, where we are so fortunate to have the Dentelles in our backyard, it has been a remarkable spring.  Throughout lockdown there was almost nobody apart from us hiking the mountains, and the peace and quiet was palpable.  It was not silence as such however, but the lack of man-made noise, no distant sounds of traffic, not sounds of machinery, no aeroplanes and no human voices.  It was as if for those few months people and machines were banished from the world and in their place we heard the calls of birds that we never heard before and we saw animals, birds and reptiles that we never noticed before, it was their world once again.

This seems to have been a very prolific spring too.  The wild flowers have been more numerous and bigger than we have ever seen before.  I'm hoping that's because the spring weather has been particularly kind and not because the flowers are picked or trampled in 'normal' years.

Still it makes one think about the impact we have on nature, there can't be much of this planet untouched by Homo sapiens, and every year there are about 75 million more of us, which is more than the population of the UK.

Celebrating the Solstice

Tomorrow, June 21st, we'll celebrate the "Fête de la Musique" here in France with free performances by bands and musicians in the squares and on the street corners of every town and village across France.  In 'normal' years this is one of the most enjoyable nights of the year with dancing in the streets and the overflowing restaurant tables spilling over the pavements, this year I imagine it might be a smaller and more restrained celebration.

The event is the product of the ideas of Maurice Fleuret who was director of music and dance in the culture ministry of Jack Lang in 1982, however the then President of the Republic François Mitterand seems to have subsequently taken most of the credit - which is hardly surprising as this must be one of the most popular decisions of any politician!

The fête is always held on June 21st on the assumption that it is the longest day or summer solstice (in the northern hemisphere), although the solstice actually occurs at 23:43 (French time) June 20th this year, so I guess that means that today is really the longest day. However, regardless of the timing of the solstice, tomorrow night is party night in France.  I'm sure there will be plenty of people celebrating and the restauranteurs will be very glad to have some customers again.

Monday 15 June 2020

Playing 'le foot' with Platini et al

As mentioned in a blog below I have a long relationship with France, its people, and some of its companies. Indeed, one of my very earliest memories is of walking the ramparts at Carcassonne aged three. I can also recall, a couple of days later, learning to whistle as we crossed the Pyrenees to Barcelona.

But among my greatest memories of this wonderful country is of playing football against Michel Platini and other French football greats in Paris in late 1994. It happened when, as part of the multi-decade dance of despair between the advertising agency McCann-Ericksen and GM Opel, the Opel Group was transferred from Frankfurt to Paris.

One of the first things I noticed in the Levallois offices of McCann Paris (located in the lovely old building that once housed the British Hospital) was a poster announcing a football match to take place between the agency and Le Varieté Club de France. I knew that such events often involved famous celebrities and sports people so I asked around and discovered that the agency team would be playing against Mr Platini and other such Gods.

New boots

Well, as someone who had lived, breathed and dreamed football from a very young age I was not going to miss out on this! So, although my boots were still in Frankfurt (where I was briefly known at 'der British Gerd Muller' after scoring a hat-trick in an indoor tournament) I ran out and brought another pair. To their credit, the agency team was more than happy for me to take part even though I had only just been dunped on them.

The match took place at a sport ground in the west of Paris on a Sunday afternoon. As always I arrived early so I was there to see Platini stroll in. Although his career had only finished a few years previously he had already fleshed out considerably and was - at least physically - far from the graceful and inventive matchstick who had won so many games for France and Juventus in the 1980s. Even so, just watching him strike the ball as he warmed-up with a few of his old team mates was a joy. Such effortless power and precision.

The other player I recognised instantly was the winger Dominique Rocheteau because he looked exactly the same as the man whose poster had been on my bedroom wall circa 1978. He had not gained so much as half a kilo and his hair was just as long. I don't know who else took part but I believe it was mainly players from the great French team of the early to mid-80s - players like Jean Tigana and Alain Giresse. (I spotted the 'Alain Giresse Sports Ground' or some such in the town of his birth near Bordeaux recently. The sports ground was hosting a rather pathetic-looking circus. I think I saw an elephant.)

Needless to say, half the agency was, like me, determined to be part of this (some of them were nowhere to seen on wet Tuesday evenings for matches against other agencies). As such, I started the match as a substitute and watched as the old pros ran rings around the young guys from the agency. Rocheteau, in particular, took it all very seriously and ran about eagerly, determined to win by as many goals as possible. This was slightly surprising to me because he had always given the impression of being something of a playboy who would forget about football when his career was over. Platini, on the other hand, just strolled around, occasionally getting the ball then doing literally whatever he wanted to to do with it, usually things the rest of us could only dream of doing.

Nutmegged!

I got on to the pitch half way through the first half and remained there until half time. Then I think I was off-and-on during second half. I don't remember doing anything useful in a footballing sense, not least because we rarely had the ball. Unquestionably, the highlight from my point of view was being nutmegged by Rocheteau. I also remember marking Rocheteau while Platini tried to get in a cross, and thinking 'Wow! I can't believe this'.

It was all over very quickly and the Old Pros beat the Young Fools by a ridiculous margin. I shook hands with Platini and some of the other legends at the end of the game. I then became a reasonably useful part of the agency team for the rest of that season, a team that contained a couple of very good players. But not as good as Platini and Rocheteau.


Tuesday 9 June 2020

Bars and Bras




I have to admit that I do feel the call of the bar - not the legal bar you understand but the alcoholic variety.  Not that I'm a 'bar fly', no, at least not for the last 50 odd years, it's just a great social environment that I'm missing after a couple of months of lockdown and I have to wonder when, if ever, we'll be able to really enjoy it again.

What I miss is not the beery bar of my student youth, when the choice of beverage (and location) was dictated by financial constraints (and ignorance) but something that I came to enjoy later in life as my preference moved from beer to martinis to wine to real wine and good food!


Along with the change in taste came the discovery of those great bars (especially in California) where one can enjoy good food, usually cooked by chefs right in front of you, and pretty decent wine - all while seated in 'intimate public privacy' at a classy bar.  Happy times.  After a while and a little observation I also discovered that what the chefs were up to was not rocket science, and that's proved to be a handy life skill!
We all know that a great bar needs more than polished mahogany, backlit bottles and shady lighting - it needs a great bartender!  Forget the 'manager' who struts around nervously trying to avoid eye contact while he figures if he'll get his bonus this month.  What we need is the real bartender who remembers your favourite tipple when you've been away for six months, always pours a little more than he should and knows what's good on the menu.
However - what's really important of course is the company!  What can I say? Choose your really good friends, better still your lover, you'll have a great time!  Forget politics, the sports scores and the boring locals! Enjoy Happy Hour!

So I suppose now you are asking "Where do the bras come into all of this?"
Well, it got you reading didn't it?
And the question is "Are bras necessary in bars?"
Answers in the comments column please

Wednesday 3 June 2020

Every picture tells a story ...

   

Lockdown relaxation day 1 - dinner at our favourite Gigondas restaurant - masks off for eating & drinking of course!


  
















Monday 1 June 2020

Some recent reading on the subject of France

Multiple visits in recent years to Gigondas and several other wine-producing areas of France have prompted me to direct more of my reading towards the country and its people. This is not to say that I was previously ignorant of French literature, history and society. As a child we often holidayed on France, I lived in Paris in the 1990s, and for much of my career I created advertising for Citroen. Thus I absorbed my share of Sartre, Celine, Camus, Maupassant, Robbe-Grillet, Flaubert, Voltaire, de Sade, Houellebecq et al, and read numerous non-fiction books on subjects such as Guy Debord and the Situationists, Voltaire, Rousseau and, of course, the Revolution.

This recent uptick in my reading around the subject of France has been very enlightening and I hope that sharing my thoughts might alert you to some books that interest you. For the purposes of brevity I have excluded books on the subject of wine. 

A load of Cobb(lers)?

Perhaps the most ‘difficult’ book among my recent reading is The French and their Revolution by Richard Cobb. This is not an account of the Revolution itself because Cobb was a social historian par excellence. As such, he focuses on subjects such as ‘The Officers and Men of the Parisian Armée’ and ‘A View on the Street: Seduction and Pregnancy in Revolutionary Lyon’. The result is 450 pages of dense, esoteric information – utterly fascinating or too much detail, depending on your point of view.

Still in a historical vein, The Conquest Of The Sahara by Douglas Porch is certainly worth reading. Essentially, it's one long tale of 'What were they thinking of?' as one expedition after another heads off into the desert, with countless deaths at the hands of the heat and/or the indigenous population. 

Cheese eating surrender monkeys?

Needless to say, I have read one or two books that cover WWII. Very enjoyable was Village of Secrets: Defying the Nazis in Vichy France by Caroline Moorehead. This is an inspiring story of  how people of various religious denominations – but mainly Protestants and Darbyists – living in the remote Easter Massif Central helped to save 5,000 people from the Nazis.

Less inspiring, indeed profoundly depressing, was France Under The Germans: Collaboration and Compromise by Philippe Burin. I read this just last year and even I was shocked at the extent to which groups such as the unions and industry enthusiastically collaborated. The book also acts as a solid history of the Vichy regime. Highly recommended.

Talking of cheese, I picked up an Eyewitness Companions guide to French Cheeses a couple of years ago, with a foreword by Joel Rubuchon. It is very thorough but I keep forgetting to take it with me on visits to France.

Some fiction

You may have heard of Leila Slimani, the French-Moroccan writer who has been lauded everywhere from the New Yorker to What Car?* Her novel entitled The Perfect Nanny won the Prix Goncourt a couple of years ago so when I saw a copy in one of the ‘street libraries’ in Amsterdam I naturally read it. I can only advise you not to do the same. Even by the standards of contemporary fiction it is nonsense.

*Only joking, I don't think she has come to the attention of the automotive press.

Better, I suppose, but not in any meaningful sense, was Houellebecq’s latest, Serotonine. It is all about…oh, you know what it’s all about and how he tells the story, such as it is. Why bother?

Peasants and prescience

John Berger is not French, of course, but he lived the second half of his life in France, largely as a peasant farmer in the Haut Savoie. While there he wrote some of his best fiction, notably some collections of stories about, or told by, peasants. A few years ago I read one of these collections. It is called Pig Earth and it is marvellous. It also incorporates a very good essay on the essential nature and outlook of what might be described as the ‘eternal peasant’.

A couple of years ago I finally got around to Jean Raspail’s Camp Of The Saints. An impressive piece of work that offered a glimpse into the future, although one person to whom I lent the book thought that it fell apart towards the end.

Politics and ‘progress’

Not too long ago I read The French Right from de Maistre and Maurras. A thin and rather pointless book if you ask me, which revealed some very nasty anti-semites, although Maurras had some interesting things to say about democracy. I don't know why George Steiner was involved with this book. Surely he had better things to do

Somewhat unstructured but always interesting was The Discovery of France by Graham Robb, which I read last year. Broadly speaking it relates the process by which a diverse and disconnected France, in which half the population didn’t even speak French in the mid-19th century, was hammered into the modern French state. As so often with such books one immediately forgets much of the content, yet one fact always remains with you. In this case it is the fact that in 2005, something like 36 French departements were home to fewer people than in 1905.

Oh God it’s Godard

As someone who has probably seen more films by Jean-Luc Godard than most, I felt compelled to read every word of Everything Is Cinema by Richard Brody. It’s a very comprehensive biography of this infuriating man, with detailed accounts of all the films and TV projects etc. That reminds me, I also read a short book about Agnes Varda’s classic film Cléo 5 a 7, which contains more new ideas than almost any film ever made. Sadly, we lost this great artist last year.

Further down the cultural ladder, I happened to read Francoise Hardy’s autobiography quite recently. For reasons I cannot recall the title is Despair Monkeys. Naturally, it contains a lot of silliness and when you go to YouTube to check out the songs they are mostly rubbish although I will always like Star and A Vannes.

Truffle trouble and Peter Mayle

It’s not a French book, but Truffle Underground by Ryan Jacobs incorporates large sections about the shenanigans pertaining to the hunting and sale of truffles in places not far from Gigondas. Very interesting. And disturbing.

And then there’s the dreaded Peter Mayle. I had always refrained from reading him as A Year In Provence was the only book I ever saw in the hands of the most intellectually and spiritually vacuous boss I ever had. (And there is some competition when it comes to the vacuity of my various bosses, believe me). What surprised me about A Year In Provence and Toujours Provence when I found them both in street libraries (obviously I would never buy them) was just how feeble and unfunny they are. What a racket!

Odds and ends

I read a book – not a hugely detailed one – about Cezanne a couple of years ago but I can’t find it. Just recently I read those parts of The Novels of Robbe-Grillet by Bruce Morrissette that relate to the novels of Robbe-Grillet that I have actually read. And of course one is always reading travel or history books by the likes of Paul Theroux or Andrew Roberts that incorporate France to some extent.

In that regard, it should be said the Ashoka Mody’s brilliant EuroTragedy: A Drama In Nine Acts is substantially about France, given that it was Pompidou who first proposed the single currency and the French who constantly pushed for it thereafter. Fortuitously, I purchased this book a day before lockdown and it kept me occupied for a few days. Everybody should read it.

What’s next?

I would like to read that new biography of de Gaulle. There’s a book on the pile entitled St Joan of Arc by Vita Sackville-West although I don’t know if I’ll ever bother with that one as I probably know all I need to know about Jeanne d'Arc. I really must read Soumisison, which will probably come to be regarded as Houellebecq's most significant book, if books are permitted in the future that awaits us. I will not be reading any books by or about Sarkozy, Hollande or Macron.


Regional specialties and a unique wine!

This weekend in Le Temps des cerises we combined take away from one of our favorite restaurants in the village, with one home made dish. Like everywhere else, also here restaurants provide a take away service in order to survive-more or less- this especially for them very difficult time. The restaurant 'Puurs Lof' serves Flemish and regional specialties, like for example eel in green sauce, fish stew and asparagus soup. We ordered the asparagus soup and the croquettes with asparagus and North-sea shrimp! absolutely delicious!



The main dish was again, on general demand, the pork cheeks stew with Rodenbach I made two weeks ago!



The wine this Sunday was a bit of a curiosity, that takes me back to one of the weirdest conversations I have ever had. One evening a few years ago,  I got a strange phone call from somebody who was clearly drunk and who I could not very well understand because the line was awfully bad. Through the crackles I could however discern this one phrase, an enigmatic question that was asked without any introduction:  'what is bee's knees in Latin?' I had no idea who this man was and what he was talking about... I just thought: 'you're going to have a serious headache tomorrow'. It turned out this person was my father, calling from Gigondas -hence the bad line- and 'Bee's knees' was a new wine in the making... These days, a bottle of Bee's Knees is hard to find, but fortunately we have our contacts- networking is everything these days! So there it was!: a powerful and yet fruity, unmistakably high quality Gigondas. If it is true every wine bears the mark of its maker, then there is certainly a viticulteur de caractère behind this one!